Owey Island: A Time-Warped Retreat Perfect for Disconnecting

Off the coast of Donegal, Ireland, lies Owey Island, a car-free haven where time stands still. Last inhabited full-time in the ’70s, locals are now resurrecting a lost way of life – and adventurous travellers are warmly welcomed.

A Friday night on Owey Island feels like a time-warp to the Ireland of yesteryear. Smoke from burning turf fills the air as locals bustle in and out of their well-maintained homes, sharing freshly caught fish and odd jobs. Friendly dogs roam freely, and chickens strut about. As the roar of the sea and rustling reeds harmonise with warm, convivial chatter, it’s hard to believe this lively sanctuary lay dormant for decades. Owey’s isolation draws both locals and travellers alike. The seasonal community is passionate about keeping the island untouched by present-day conventions.

There’s no ferry service to the island; access is by kayak or private boat only, and there’s no electricity or running water. Only the distant twinkling lights from the mainland hint at civilisation. In the 1970s, Owey was home to nearly 100 residents, but the allure of mainland conveniences led to a dwindling population. The last islanders left in 1977, and the place lay abandoned for over 25 years. Paul Cowan, who moved here with his family in the early 1970s to escape the unrest in Belfast, was among the first wave to return, seeing the island’s potential as a peaceful escape. Along with siblings and other descendants, they began to fix up old homes and build new ones. Today, about 20 homes stand, with a seasonal community of 20–30 people living here during the warmer months.

Owey’s isolation attracts those looking to disconnect from the fast pace of life and seek adventure. The rugged landscape draws kayakers to its sea caves, rock climbers to its sea cliffs, and hill walkers. The hostel, once McGinley’s grandmother’s home, still retains much of its original furniture, and with limited amenities – like a compost toilet in an outhouse – it faithfully reflects the islanders’ way of life. According to Gallagher, this simpler lifestyle offers spectacular sunsets, with no light pollution and highly visible star constellations. The greatest noise pollution, apart from the occasional quad bike, comes from a corn crake, a rare and noisy bird once native to the island that often returns in summer. Owey offers everything needed for a true disconnect: unspoiled beauty, adrenaline-fuelled kayaking tours of sea caves, and a picturesque clifftop lake where one can immerse themselves in a sense of peace and tranquillity.

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